Transforming Textile Waste with Proposed EPR Laws in New York and Washington

WORDS: GAIL EVERDING

LAYOUT:SCOTT TRAUSCh

Legislating Circularity

In September 2024, California set a strong precedent for textile sustainability by passing SB707, the Responsible Textile Recovery Act, mandating producer accountability for the lifecycle of textile products. Now, New York and Washington are proposing similar Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) laws, further advancing the circular textile movement.

Read along to get a better understanding of the economic and environmental burdens of the growing textile waste problem, how the bills in New York and Washington hope to address the problem, the larger movement toward full textile circularity, as well as the opportunities they unlock and challenges they face.

The Global Textile Waste Crisis

Each year, 85% of textiles—approximately 92 million tons—end up discarded, primarily ending up in landfills or incinerators (1). In 2018 alone, Americans discarded 17 million tons of textiles, accounting for 5.83% of all municipal solid waste, marking an 80% increase since 2000, significantly surpassing the general waste growth rate of 20% (2). The average American disposed of 103.5 pounds of textiles in 2018, a 55% increase per capita from 2000, largely driven by fast fashion trends encouraging frequent purchases and shorter product lifespans (3).

With the global population projected to exceed 8.5 billion by 2030 (4), textile waste is expected to rise dramatically—potentially increasing by 60% from 2015 levels and reaching 148 million tons annually (5).

Environmental Impact

The textile industry contributes roughly 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions and consumes a significant amount of the Earth’s water supply (6). Decomposition of textiles in landfills produces methane, a greenhouse gas approximately 28 times more potent than CO₂ (7). In the U.S., landfills are the third largest source of human-related methane emissions, equivalent to around 295 million metric tons of CO₂ over 20 years(8).

Synthetic fibers like polyester do not decompose organically; incineration of these materials releases embedded fossil carbon as CO₂ (9). Landfill conditions also cause synthetic textiles to leach harmful substances—such as dyes, heavy metals, plasticizers, and PFAS—into groundwater and soil, exacerbating environmental contamination (10, 11). Additionally, textile waste contributes to the micro- and nano-plastics pollution affecting waterways, food chains, and air quality.

Economic Costs

Beyond its environmental impact, textile waste also carries significant economic costs. In the U.S. alone, managing textile waste – through collection, landfilling, and incineration – cost taxpayers over $4 billion in 2020 (12). With waste volumes continuing to surge, the costs of collection, landfilling, and incineration are expected to climb.

These rising costs, coupled with the environmental consequences of unchecked textile waste, signal increasing risks for a variety of stakeholders – from consumers and municipal waste collectors to brands and retailers).

Circular Economy: A Path Forward

Circularity moves beyond the linear “take-make-dispose” model, instead prioritizing material reuse, recycling, and sustainable design.

Like California’s SB707, the proposed laws in New York and Washington aim to implement this model through Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) frameworks, holding brands accountable for product lifecycles and waste management costs, thus incentivizing recycling and waste reduction and creating a more economically viable textile industry (13).

NY Bill A6193

New York Assembly Bill A6193 proposes a robust EPR framework requiring textile producers—including apparel and home goods—to submit comprehensive recycling and collection plans by December 31, 2026. Non-compliant producers will be barred from selling their products within the state.

Producers must offer accessible, free collection points for consumers and demonstrate clear tracking and responsible textile management. Products sold in New York must be labeled with the producer's contact information, and approved recycling plans will be publicly available. Brands may collaborate through a collective Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO) but are not required to do so.

Penalties for non-compliance include fines of up to $500 per violation and similar daily penalties for ongoing non-compliance. The bill is currently with the Assembly Environmental Conservation Committee and awaits further action.

New York's legislation could significantly expand current textile recycling initiatives, such as refashionNYC. The program, despite diverting over 12,200 tons of textiles since 2011, addresses only a fraction of the 200,000 tons discarded annually in the city (14), thus highlighting the need for broader legislative support.

WA Bill 1420

Washington’s HB1420 – currently under review by the House Appropriations Committee – also establishes an EPR program. The legislation requires textile producers operating in the state to join a Department of Ecology-approved PRO or independently register by January 1, 2027, with full program implementation by January 1, 2032.

PRO members must manage comprehensive recycling programs, create statewide collection networks, and provide educational outreach. Collected textiles must be prioritized for reuse and recycling. Producers must annually report product details, chemicals used, and sustainability initiatives. Companies earning over $100 million annually must also disclose supplier working conditions and environmental impacts.

Penalties for non-compliance are significant, with fines up to $10,000 per violation per day. Additional enforcement measures include cost recovery by the Department of Ecology and suspension of producer registrations (15).

Potential Benefits of EPR Programs

France’s successful textile EPR program, initiated in 2007, demonstrates potential benefits for the U.S. market. France increased textile collection from 100,000 tons in 2009 to 244,448 tons in 2021, with a target of 300,000 tons annually (16). The program also supported local recycling and innovation projects in addition to creating 1,400 full-time sorting jobs by 2017, half of which were allocated to workers facing employment challenges (17).

Similarly, implementing well-structured EPR programs in the U.S. could significantly boost economic growth. New York’s Department of Environmental Conservation estimates these programs could generate over 1,000 new jobs and nearly $130 million annually from recycled textiles.

Challenges and Opportunities

Despite requiring substantial investment in stewardship programs, public education, and circular design, proposed EPR laws in New York and Washington present significant opportunities. Consumers increasingly prioritize sustainability, with willingness to pay 10-12% premiums for eco-friendly products. Brands adopting circular strategies will meet regulatory demands more easily, solidifying their market position and appealing to environmentally-conscious consumers.

Organizations like Everywhere, which operate established circular systems, can support brands transitioning to compliance, leveraging extensive experience in textile recycling, collection, and industry collaboration. Proactive adaptation to EPR requirements enables brands to transform regulatory compliance into a competitive advantage, contributing significantly to a more sustainable textile industry.

Ready to start your circularity journey? Get in touch with Everywhere to stay ahead of regulatory changes and enhance sustainability through our expertise and hands-on experience implementing circular systems.

SOURCES

United States Environmental Protection Agency, Textiles: Material-Specific Data.
National Institute of Standards and Technology, Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles Workshop Report.
Ibid.
United Nations, Probabilistic Population Projections based on World Population Prospects: The 2015 Revision.
J. Kerr, J. Landry, The Pulse of the Fashion Industry.
McKinsey & Company, Fashion on Climate.
European Commission, Methane Emission.
RMI, Waste Methane 101: Driving Emissions Reductions from Landfills.
Public Interest Research Group, Most of our clothes are made from fossil fuels: Here’s why that’s a problem.
Journal of Hazardous Materials, Leaching of heavy metals from polyester microplastic fibers and the potential risks in simulated real-world scenarios
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency, PFAS in the textile and leather Industries.
Textile Exchange, Webinar #1: The Cost and Environmental Impact of U.S. Textile and Apparel Waste.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation, We need Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy for textiles.
Next City, How NYC Is Stopping Textile Waste With Low-Tech Donation Bins.
Washington State Legislature, HB 1420.
N. Obando, In Europe, the circular economy in textiles is being reinvented.
Knowledge Hub, EPR Policy: France's National Programme for Textiles Recovery.
New York State Department of Environmental Conservation, Textile Reuse And Recycling.
Bain & Company, Consumers say their environmental concerns are increasing…
First Insight, THE STATE OF CONSUMER SPENDING: Gen Z Shoppers Demand Sustainable Retail.

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